Campania Archives - All Around Italia https://allarounditalia.com/category/regionsofitaly/campania/ Italy and Italian language for you and your family! Thu, 22 Jun 2023 13:13:44 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 https://allarounditalia.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/1200-x-1200-transparent-150x150.png Campania Archives - All Around Italia https://allarounditalia.com/category/regionsofitaly/campania/ 32 32 Procida https://allarounditalia.com/procida/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=procida Wed, 15 Mar 2023 01:49:02 +0000 https://allarounditalia.com/?p=4668 Procida – a dreamlike reality in the Gulf of Naples. Learn what it’s like to visit. For when you can’t be there, ideas to experience Procida from your own home.

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Of all the magnificent places I’ve visited in Italy, there is one that captured my imagination more than any other. I revisit it often in my mind - Procida.

It was 2012 when my friend and I were organizing a trip to the Amalfi Coast over Easter weekend. It would be my first visit, and there was so much I wanted to do: go to the famous Positano and Amalfi, walk up to Ravello, take a day trip to Capri.  

My friend, on the other hand, had only one request: to spend time in Procida, where Il Postino was filmed. She wanted to go on Good Friday as there was supposed to be a special procession on the island that day.  

No one had ever recommended Procida to me, and I’d never seen Il Postino. Before we left, my friend procured me a copy of the DVD. After seeing it, I couldn’t wait for our visit. 

On Holy Thursday, we rode from Naples to the Amalfi Coast. It was a rainy, windy day. Local passengers on the bus warned that our ferry to Procida wouldn’t depart the next day if there was mar mosso, a rough sea. 

Waking up early in the morning, we were relieved to find that the wind and waters had calmed. We could go to the island.

As our ferry entered the port, rows of cheery pastel houses and brightly colored fishing boats welcomed us. The port was sleepy and calm, despite the Good Friday Procession - one of the island’s most important events of the year.

Started around the seventeenth century by the local order of the Jesuits – the Turchini brotherhood, Procida’s Good Friday Procession commemorates the Bible’s mysteries. Elaborate floats represent important events and miracles from the Old Testament and the New Testament including Stations of the Cross. 

The floats are works of beauty. Some carry statues that have been part of the procession for hundreds of years. Others are designed and made new each year by groups of villagers with materials like paper mache and wood but also fresh fish and produce.  

Accompanied by a funeral march in honor of Jesus’ Passion, the men and boys and Procida carry the floats from the abbey on the hilltop – L’Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo – to the Marina Grande. They are dressed in the traditional deep blue and white hooded robes of the Turchini brotherhood.

Watching the procession, my friend and I had no words. We were awestruck –  carried away by sights, sounds, and emotions. The intricacy of the floats, the beautiful sunkissed people carrying them so proudly, the beating rhythm accompanying the march. We were so fortunate to  have happened to be in Procida for this special day – an incredible glimpse into the heart and soul of the entire island. 

As the Procession ended, we slowly shook ourselves out of our mesmerized state to explore the island. 

Divided into nine districts across just 4 square kilometers (1.5 square miles), Procida is brimming with natural beauty and culture.

Formed thousands of years ago by volcano eruptions, different rock formations and sands abound. Touring around, you see lots of flowers and vegetation as well as two delicacies grown in Procida – lemons and artichokes. Attached to Procida by a small bridge, you will find an uninhabited island nature reserve, Vivara.

Even though the island is tiny, the coastline is so jagged that it runs for around 16 kilometers (10 miles) and is full of beaches to visit. We began with the most famous – La spiaggia di Pozzo Vecchio, better known as La Spiaggia del Postino. Over a lunch of fresh fish and calamari at the bar where the movie’s main characters meet, we imagined what the beach was like during filming. 

After lunch, it was time to explore the districts, which amazingly all have their own character despite being so close to each other. In the oldest village and highest point on the island, Terra Murata, we pondered what life must have been like as a prisoner in the ex-palace and prison Palazzo d’Avalos that stands guard over the island. In Sent’cò,  we visited the Marina Grande. There were various churches to visit across the other districts – the majority of which are named after saints: San Leonardo, Santissima Annunziata, Sant’Antuono, Sant’Antonio

Ending the day in the colorful fishing port of Corricella, we admired the hard work and spirit of the Procidians, many who dedicate their lives to the ocean, fishing and seafaring. 

Getting back on the ferry to Amalfi, we were sad to leave Procida behind us. We’d just had the privilege to taste a life that wasn’t ours and experience the magic of it. 

When Procida was declared Italian Capital of Culture in 2022, something strange happened – I began learning that many people I know had also been to Procida. None of us had ever talked about it before. It was as if we’d all had the same reaction: our experiences there had almost been too memorable and special to share. We had kept Procida for ourselves, maybe hoping it could really be a place that would never change. 

Procida Good Friday Procession

Italian Vocabulary related to Procida

All Around Italia helps you learn about Italy and also learn Italian! Here are some words related to Procida. Have you heard these before?

l’aliscafo – hydrofoil, a higher-speed ferry boat

Abbiamo viaggiato da Amalfi a Procida in aliscafo che è più veloce del traghetto. / We traveled from Amalfi to Procida by hydrofoil, which is faster than a ferry.

frastagliato – jagged  

La costa dell’isola di Procida è molto frastagliata. / Procida’s coast is very jagged.

una contrada – district, quarter; this word has Medieval origins

La piccola isola di Procida è divisa in nove contrade. / The little island of Procida is divided into nine districts. 

Because of its great beauty and allure, Procida has received quite a lot of attention from writers, filmmakers, and artists. 

The island has been the setting of various films such as: The Talent Mr. Ripley with Matt Damon, Francesca e Nunziata with Sophia Loren, and Un detenuto di attesa di giudizio with Alberto Sordi. The film that has achieved most success – and my personal favorite – is Il Postino

Il Postino is a charming story of love and friendship set in Procida in the 1950s featuring Massimo Troisi, Maria Grazia Cucinotta, and Philippe Noiret (whom you may remember from Cinema Paradiso – another favorite of mine). Troisi plays Mario Ruoppolo, a local of Procida, who befriends a Pablo Neruda (Noriet), a Chilean poet exiled to the island for polical reasons. During filming, Troisi was seriously ill and passed away from a heart attack before the film’s release. Understanding Troisi’s incredible level of commitment to the movie makes it all the more powerful.

You can view the movie on Youtube here.

Buona visione!

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Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels https://allarounditalia.com/neapolitan-novels/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=neapolitan-novels Fri, 31 Dec 2021 04:45:35 +0000 https://allarounditalia.com/?p=4571 Through the story of a deep and complicated friendship, Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels illuminate Italy’s most fascinating city - Naples.

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Until I read Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it had been a very long time since a book kept me up to the wee hours of the night.

Beginning with L’amica geniale, Ferrante’s four-book series chronicles the fictional friendship of two Neapolitan women, Elena and Lila. Their story spans from the 1950’s to the early 2000’s. Readers journey through an era of contemporary Italian history.

Born in the same poor neighborhood of Naples, Elena and Lila grow up together. After elementary school, Lila is forced to stop school and start working. Elena, on the other hand, continues her education. She ultimately goes to college and never returns to live in Naples. Meanwhile, Lila never leaves Naples. 

Despite their different paths, Elena and Lila remain closely and strangely connected throughout their lives. They care for each other deeply. At the same time, however, they are jealous of one another and destructively competitive.

Elena and Lila’s story is complex, disturbing, and completely captivating. Exactly like the city of Naples.

I am fortunate to be able to visit Naples fairly often, and it never ceases to amaze me. Naples has a rich and varied history, fabulous food, breathtaking views, and a lively and beautiful culture. At the same time, it is dirty, dilapidated, chaotic, hard to navigate, and can be eerie and unsafe.  

As demonstrated through Elena’s experience, Naples suffers from a poor reputation in the rest of Italy. When I was preparing for my first trip there, many of my friends told me it was too dangerous and not worth going. Interestingly, none of them had ever visited. 

It turned out that my friends were wrong about Naples. It’s true that it’s no Florence, no Capri. Naples is not a place that caters to tourists or tries to make people feel good all the time. Instead, what you’ll find in Naples is complete authenticity. And I love this. 

No matter who you are, Naples will immerse you in its realities and contradictions – both the bello and the brutto. Everything there hits hard and comes fast. If you let the brutto knock you down before you can soak in the bello, you will miss out on experiencing a truly amazing place.

Ferrante’s series mirrors the magic of Naples - capable of capturing the hearts and minds of anyone and everyone who gets to know it.

Since the Neapolitan novels’ main characters are female, I assumed the books would mainly appeal to a female audience. Just like my experience with Naples itself, Ferrante’s books proved that stereotypes are often wrong. 

On the subway, I started to notice men reading the Neapolitan novels. During Covid quarantine, I watched my husband dive headfirst into the series. When the TV rendition L’amica geniale came out, he urged me to watch new episodes with him at the moment of release (despite it being difficult for me, nine months pregnant, to stay up late). My dad and uncle also found the series and loved it.

Finally, the Neapolitan novels’ unique trajectory to fame yet again offers a parallel with the city they represent – a tendency to do things spectacularly and differently. 

Largely before Ferrante became a household name in Italy, the translations of her books gained fame abroad. I initially heard of L’amica geniale from a friend who’d read the English translation. When I asked my friends in Italy for a copy in Italian, none of them knew of the book – not even those from Naples.

As Ferrante fever grew worldwide, the demand for input from Ferrante herself increased. But that was not possible! Ferrante is a pen name, and the author has kept their identity secret. This choice propelled the books’ translators into the spotlight – a really cool side effect – as translation is typically an underappreciated profession that goes under the radar. 

As you can see, I am in love with this series and so impressed. Perfectly personifying one of Italy’s most unique cities, the Neapolitan novels demonstrate that special power Italy has: the ability to surprise, connect, and ignite passion in people all over the world.

Naples

Italian Vocabulary related to the Neapolitan Novels

All Around Italia helps you learn about Italy and also learn Italian! Here are some words related to Neapolitan Novels. Have you heard these before?

il rione – neighborhood, district, quarter

Elena e Lila crescono insieme nello stesso rione di Napoli. / Elena and Lila grow up in the same neighborhood in Naples. 

 

ambientare – take place  

I libri e la serie televisiva sono ambientati principalmente a Napoli. / The books and TV series take place primarily in Naples.  

 

raccontare –  tell, recount, narrate

La quadrilogia di Elena Ferrante racconta la storia di due amiche napoletane. / Elena Ferrante’s four-book series tells the story of two Neapolitan friends. 

If you haven’t done so already, get immersed by reading the books and/or the watching the TV series. 

Personally, I read the Neapolitan novels in Italian. For those advanced in Italian, I highly recommend the Italian versions. The story is full of dialogue and accessible to language-learners. Although there was at least one unfamiliar vocabulary word on every page, this didn’t inhibit my ability to understand and read on. 

If you’re not comfortable yet to read in Italian, Ann Goldstein’s English translations are highly praised. I have heard Goldstein speak at various conferences, and there is nothing closer you could get to the originals in Italian.

Once you start the book, the first 50 or so pages may seem overwhelming because of the multitude of characters. Persist! As soon as you get past the beginning chapters, you will get consumed and start flying through. 

As for the TV series, I also highly recommend it. The RAI/HBO partnership is producing a thoughtful, beautiful, and true-to-the-books representation of Ferrante’s work. They have sought out undiscovered actors who speak Neapolitan dialect, and the result is so convincing. Italian or English subtitles will probably be necessary due to the amount of dialect spoken.

If you’d like to share the series with your children, know that there are definitely some mature themes and disturbing moments. I think that before their teen years might be too early. 

Whether you’re starting the books or TV series, just make sure you choose a period where you’ll have some time to dedicate to them … you’re going to get hooked!

Buona lettura e buona visione!

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